We arrive in Quito, la mitad del mundo (the middle of the world), at night, only to awaken the next morning to a view of the Pichincha Volcano and the majestic contours of the Andes. Touring the city of Quito, we see that modernization has not robbed Ecuador of its uniqueness; this is largely because it is the people, not just the historic sites and natural beauty, that give this country its character.
We wind our way through the Andean highlands to the pueblos just north of Otavalo, two hours north of Quito, where we will live for the next nine days. The community of San Francisco de Pachapamba is small and warm and provides a traditional glimpse into the people and culture of Andean life. There are no more than 40 families in San Francisco de Pachapamba, with a schoolhouse accommodating roughly 60 students and a community center for gathering. Our projects will include constructing a communal kitchen center, sidewalks, retaining walls and vegetable gardens. When not working, we teach English to the children who have been eagerly awaiting our arrival for nearly a year, and play basketball, volleyball and soccer. There is also ample opportunity to practice our Spanish with the community and each other. At the end of our stay, we celebrate with a farewell meal shared with the community, as we eagerly prepare for the next phase of our adventure.
Next, we visit the popular market of Otavalo where we are immersed in the colors, sounds and scents of the most famous market in the country. Andean pipe music and Quichua, the native tongue derived from the Incan language, drift across the square. This also serves as a great place to practice our Spanish, as we buy local artisan crafts and explore the village.
We then wind our way into the jungle through spectacular areas of the upper Amazon Basin. Here we raft the Jatunyacu River, tackling Class III+ rapids before setting up camp in an indigenous Kichwa village. The next morning, we complete our rafting journey, stopping along the way to explore the jungle terrain and swim underneath a hidden waterfall.
Emerging from the rainforest, we head back to Quito for a wildlife experience of a lifetime. We head for the Galápagos Islands as Darwin did before us and spend six days exploring the islands of Santa Cruz and Isabella, hiking to the highlands, camping on a volcano, swimming, surfing, snorkeling and visiting the lava tunnels and the Charles Darwin Research Station. We see century-old lava flows, swim with sea lions, their young pups and giant turtles, and stand next to blue-footed boobies feeding their young. We also witness giant tortoises lumbering through cactus forests.
Heading back to Quito, we enjoy a closing banquet and reflect on our new understanding of Ecuador and the words of the children we worked with, sigue no más — or “keep it going.” In the morning, we board our group flight and return to the Northern Hemisphere, taking with us a memory of a love affair with Ecuador we may never get over.